Friday, 30 April 2010
This week I received my photograph back from David Lam. I was pleased with the mood that was created through the pose of the model, and the dramatic lighting. The edgy image in the foreground contrasts with the softer, feminine pose of the image in the background. I wanted the pose to be dramatic, and I feel that David Lam has achieved this through the lighting/ editing of the photo. The volume of the dress is captured in the image behind. it would have been nice to see that image more clearly as it displays the dramatic impact of the dress.
The make-up is equally as dramatic, picking up the main colours within the print. I feel that the image successfully portrays the mood of my collection.
Sunday, 25 April 2010
Within the collection I wanted to repeat the bra design feature, and I felt that as my collection incorporates both long and short cocktail dresses, a longer body-con version of the short bra dress would look successful and create a level of continuity within the collection.
The long Colum section of the dress will be in printed silk satin. As I did not want to distort the print with seams I decided to use the pattern for the hip dress, but eliminated the hip feature and front/back seams. Through doing this I was able to achieve a figure hugging effect.
I feel that the contrast between the silk and leather will also look effective, as the contrast between luxury silks and leather has been a continuous exploration throughout the project.
I had previously constructed this toile in calico, and I did not feel that this gave the correct impression of how the dress would fit as it will be made from silk interlock, which has a lot of stretch. For this dress to have the impact I desire it is important it is figure hugging. The design of this dress was inspired by Erdem’s long printed finale dresses.
I thus re-drafted the pattern to make the dress fit to the body and re-made it in jersey. I feel that the dress will have a lot of impact due to the bold digital print I am using on the dress. Due to the print I wanted to keep the actual shape very simple.
As I did not feel that the batwing top was shown off to its full potential with the leather hip dress I decided to make a fitted leather skirt to be worn with it. The skirt looks perfect from the front as it fits to the body, and flatters the female form with the high structured waist. The contrast between the voluminous transparent organza top and the body-con skirt is particularly successful. The panelling on the skirt ties it in with the rest of the collection.
I do feel however, that I will need to take in the back seam as it does not fit to the body as well as the front of the skirt.
Tuesday, 20 April 2010
With the bra dress I further explored ways in which I could add more volume to the dress. I explored gathering the organza fabric to create a puff ball effect, as well as the possibility of adding further layers, reminiscent of the trapeze style layer dress I produced earlier within the collection. I am still unsure as to whether or not this dress does require more volume so I will continue to experiment with different techniques.
I like that how through one layer the print is still visible. With the puffball style I feel that the side profile is effective due to the mass amount of volume...however, i am not sure that the puffball style fits in with the rest of the collection.
Friday, 16 April 2010
During the construction of the collection, I adapted and developed some of the designs to improve the aesthetics of the collection/designs.
From the construction of the toile to the final dress I made slight changes to the design that include adding gathered organza under the bust, making the under dress more fitted to the body, and eliminating the bias binding.
I decided to add the gathered organza as it fits in the voluminous element I wanted the collection to have. The nature of the organza means that the gathered fabric stands beautifully away from the body, but as it is translucent you can still see the bold floral print, and figure underneath. The juxtaposition between luxury fabrics within this garment is particularly successful; the butter soft leather contrasts with the shear, matt organza and glossy silk satin. The leather gives the dress an edgy/ contemporary feel.
The print on this dress is a smaller scale version of the print on the voluminous layer dress. Varying the size/ scale and fabric of the print within the collection adds interest, and changes the nature of the print. I am pleased with the amalgamation of floral imagery and colour within this print, and it works beautifully on the silk/satin.
Lining the dress as opposed to using bias binding gives the dress a professional finish and makes it look like part of a luxury collection.
The cut out detail at the back of this dress adds a daring and provocative edge.
Wednesday, 14 April 2010
I feel that the hip detailing on the dress did not work as well as it had in my toile due to the nature of the silk satin fabric. I found the silk/satin particularly hard to work with, but the choice of fabric was perfect for the bold floral print. I decided to push myself out of my comfort zone with this print in terms of my use of colour, and amalgamation of imagery. I feel that the print reflects my research into contemporary fashion designers such as Erdem through scale and placement.
On reflection I feel that the dress would have been more successful if I had have eliminated the front and back seams as they distort the print, however I did feel that with the seam detailing the cut of the dress links in with the others garments within the collection.
To solve my problem with the hips I decided to experiment with different ways of folding the point at the hip until I discovered a method that was more flattering to the figure. I did not want to eliminate the hips completely as I feel that it works well as a design feature running through the collection.
In the image above i have explored eliminating the hip detail. As the print is so bold, i feel that the dress is strong enough without the hips, but because it is a feature I have repeated within the collection, the design feature might have to stay.
Above i have further explored folding the hips in a different way to see how this changes the style/ fit of the garment. However i feel that the image at the top of the page is stronger, as the hip shape is more dramatic.
Sunday, 11 April 2010
Throughout the making of my collection I feel that my line up has developed and evolved. As I keep reflecting on the progress of the collection, and what designs are working successfully I feel that there are a few changes to he collection that I need to make.
Above are illustrated and technical drawings of my developed line up. After seeing the leather hip dress with the organza batwing top, I felt that the dress was stronger worn on its own. I have thus decided to make a panelled leather skirt to go with the batwing top, as I feel that this will show the batwing and leather dress off to there full potential.
I have adapted the line up by adding another long dress to the collection, as I feel that the design of the dress will show my print off dramatically in comparison to the original design it replaced.
As a result of the changes I have made the collection is more consistent in my use of fabric and design features/ details.
I was fortunate to be presented with the opportunity of having one of my garments photographed by David Lam. The session enabled me to style my dress in a way that reflected my project statement, and David Lam perfectly captured the mood I aimed to create – feminine and pretty but with attitude!
I wanted the model to have dramatic make-up, creating an ‘edgy pretty’ look that complimented my research themes for the project. The make-up artist (MAC make-up) was fantastic in picking up the colours within my dress in the eyes. I kept the hair simple as I wanted the focus of the photograph to be on the dress, opting for slicking the hair back away from the face. I teamed the dress with fetish style ballet shoes as they gave the dress an edgy feel, and complimented the feminine silhouette.
We kept the poses simple, putting emphasis on the volume of the dress. It was exciting to see my garment come to life on the model!! Above are images i took after styling the model, photo by David Lam to follow..