Tuesday, 30 March 2010

Further Development

Hip Dress

I have further developed my collection/ design ideas throughout the toiling stages of this project. When re-analyzing the toiles I have already produced, I decided that the hip dress was too boxy, and not as flattering as I had intended.

To solve this problem I curved the pattern of the skirt so that is fitted tightly to the hips, as previously it flared away from the hips creating a boxy silhouette. I also explored various ways of drafting the pointed hip. I felt that it extended too far out from the body, and pointed upwards. After further exploration I noticed that the hip looked better when it pointed downwards at a slight angle from the body. I produced several toiles leading on from my experimentation with pattern drafting, and still feel that the way the hip detail folds in on itself is the most visually interesting.

As the dress will be made from leather, I decided to extend the darts into vertical seams; this creates a flattering, tailored silhouette. I also eliminated the waist seam at the front, as I felt that it detracted from the drama of the hip feature.

Initially this design had a waist seam so that the batwing top (to be worn with the dress) could also be sewn into the seam. Whilst adapting and experimenting with this pattern I decided that the batwing would look better as a detachable jacket that could be worn with or without the dress.

Looking at the final toile I produced from the newly adapted pattern I feel that the dress would look more stylish if I made it longer (above the knee), which would mean I would need to insert a small slit up the back of the dress to allow for movement. The neckline also needs to be lowered slightly.

Here I have made the dress longer, creating a more flattering, elegant silhouette. The dress now has a back slit to allow for movement. I also eliminated the waist seam at the back, preferring the look of the vertical seam all the way down the back of the dress as this is more flattering, and mirrors the design features in the front of the dress.


With the first draft of the batwing top I inserted darts at the back and front of the dress as I felt that the fitted silhouette would be more flattering against the angular hip detail of the dress. However, I did not like the appearance of the darts, and feel that they would disrupt the print that will be on the fabric I am using to construct the batwing.

In the second toile I decided to close the darts so that the batwing is fitted at the waist, but explores volume through the sleeve. I also made the sleeves longer so that they can be pushed up to intensify the volume. However, I feel that the volume that I would be able to achieve through opening the darts, rather than closing them, would compliment the nature of the organza fabric, and create a dramatic silhouette. To further intensify the volume I also further adapted the sleeve by angling the sleeve from the point of the cuff to the point of the waist.

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