Monday, 19 October 2009

Joanna Vanderpuije

Fashion and Textile designer Joanna Vanderpuije came in to talk about her design philosophy and body of work.Vanderpuije graduated from Central Saint Martins- Foundation, BA Fashion and finally MA Fashion, gaining work placements for the likes of Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders, Eley Kishimoto, and Diane von Furstenberg. Since graduating Joanna has presented her current Spring/Summer 2010 collection at London Fashion Week; under ON/OFF Presents. I am drawn to the fusion of hand drawn screen prints, worked into with embelishment, as i feel this gives her work a new dimension, aswell as a unique and individual visual language. Her use of perspex and buttons offers a tactile element to her work. Vanderpuije's prints always work back into garment shapes, cut impeccably to flatter the female form.Vanderpuije is not afraid to step outside of the box, and does not limit herself to one particular style of working.

Previous Projects - Grandad We Love You!

Grandad We Love you!!

Fuelled by age discrimination, this collection celebrates a gentleman’s courage to overcome and fight prejudice directed towards him purely because of his age. A strong military theme encompasses the collection; representing man’s fight through life to succeed and overcome the battles and challenges he is dealt. This is achieved through referencing the elaborately embellished, costumes of the Tsars, as well as war time memorabilia.

The final garment juxtaposes refined fabrics such as leather and wool, in a palette of cerise, cardinal and black. With a focus on construction and the amalgamation of embellishment techniques the final garment will be rich in both historical and contemporary referencing, and will make a strong catwalk statement on the mature man’s struggle to overcome society’s mentality.

Wednesday, 14 October 2009

Current Project - Visual!

Erdem s/s 2010 (

Elegant floral prints with innovative placemnt and use of negative space. I feel that one of the reasons i like Erdem's prints is because of his innovative placemnt of print, and i will thus consider how my print is repeated on a garment.

Prada, S/S 2010

Inspiration - Rose motif, use of colour, scale and repeat. In response to this image i intend to explore digital print processes to achieve a similar effect for my collection for Indigo.

Exploring colour, scale and reapeat in response to research into Contemporary collections. Through developing my print ideas and experimenting i will be able to push my ideas foward.

Inspired by the amalgamation of floral print and colour within Erdem, and Prada's S/S 2010 collection, i set about exploring digital print ideas on Photoshop to improve my knowledge of techniques and processes! the use of the rose motif within the Prada collection was a particular inspiration, as was the use of colour (white roses on a black background). Using Prada as my starting point i started to manipulate the rose image on photoshop, considering scale, colour and repeat.

Current Project

My current project involves designing a collection of fronts to be shown at Premier Vision in Paris. Here is a description of my direction for the collection:

Pleasure Gardens in London were opened in the 18th and 19th centuries. During this period the essential spirit of Rococo fashion was rooted in elegance, refinement and decoration, with elements of capriciousness, extravagance and coquetry. Through architectural shapes juxtaposed against graphic print and embellishment,

I aim to create a collection inspired by the female form to be worn during the cocktail hour.

Within this collection a suggestive tone will be injected through flashes of flesh to provide provocative elegance inspired by the notion that Eighteenth Century Pleasure Gardens are hotbeds of intrigue, scandal and seduction. Femininity will prevail through surface embellishment including digital print techniques, and heavy, armour like beading.

A scientific edge will prevail through an assemblage of natural remnants, setting a macabre tone for the collection, and running alongside the theme of the floral motifs to revel garments saturated in dark romanticism.

The collection will comprise indulgent fabrics such as silk chiffons and satins in chalky white, fleshy nude, aluminium grey, midnight ink, and flashes of fuchsia pink.

I am drawing inspiration from the digital floral prints seen in Prada’s S/S 2010 collection, and I am inspired by the repeat pattern and use of colour!

Images to follow!

Tuesday, 13 October 2009

Work Placement

With strong, architectural lines, bold silhouettes, and a strict inky palette of midnight black, Hannah Marshall’s collections, centering around the notion of the LBD (her pivotal inspiration), are lessons in how wearable and sexy, conceptual fashion can be. Autumn/winter 09 saw her playing with the idea of fashion as armour. Her graphic shapes (sharp shoulders, corseted waists, moulded hips) were rendered in luxury fabrics and shades of black and grey, generating a powerfully seductive look; perfect for the women she considers her muses – Carine Roitfeld, Grace Jones and Alison Mosshart.

I admire Hannah Marshall's justapositon of luxury fabrics, and was fortunate to gain work experience with the contemporary fashion designer in preperation for her A/W 09 collection. The work experience was an insight into the industry. Hannah has a clear direction and individual style that exerts integrity, and this gave me a better understanding of the drive a designer needs to succeed in such a competetive industy. The experience resulted in a greater appreciation of high end construction techniques and refined tailoring, which in turn has improved the integrity and individuality of my own work.

For S/S 2010, Marshall challenged the concept of female identity in her collection entitled 'Encryption'. The collection comprised sleek lines and razor sharp silhouttes in luxury silk chiffons and leather. Her directional designs express a generations fascination with body modification, creating a postmodern armour for the body.

Burberry Glamour

It was a lighter collection from Burberry Prorsum, who only a few seasons ago were pioneering the studded metal embellishment trend, but it was a light spring collection full of new-look trench coats which came complete with puff sleeves in an array of fabrics and shades.

If Burberry Prorsum is a show to go by, next Spring is looking like a romantic one with soft dresses in floaty chiffons that were draped and tucked to create the illusion of a curvier figure – perfect for the runway models, but what about the rest of the population? All the looks were cinched at the waist, harking back to the British fashion house’s military roots and giving the collection a little more restraint.

Trend : Tired of doodling on paper…. How about your arm? Your thigh? Or even your face?

Rodarte kicked off the body art trend in New York, covering their models with tribal shapes to complement their primitive, deconstructed collection; a rich amalgamation of distressed fabric. James Kaliardos came up with the black curvilinear designs that ended up the perfect armour for Rodarte’s futuristic warrior women.

In Paris, Jean Paul Gaultier’s models were painted with their names in large, gothic typeface giving the collection attitude, whilst at Chanel, there was a daintier, and infinitely more wearable, approach. The models were decorated with temporary chain tattoos on their wrists and thighs. The wrist tattoos had an air of comedy and kitsch, signature elements of Karl Lagerfeld’s design aesthetic. I thought the thigh tattoos complimented the light and feminine collection. But will temporary tattoos translate well in real life? Instead of toughening up your cocktail dress with a pair of boots, maybe it is time you should be drawing on your arm!


LFW S/S 2010: Mark Fast, figure-hugging furore

I am currently working on my dissertaion, which is a debate on the fashion industry's impact on the cult of thinness amongst women in western society. It was interesting to see that designers are starting to challenge societies notion of physical beauty, using healthier models on the catwalk. It simply isn’t a fashion week without some sort of controversy, and this London Fashion Week spring 2010, it is Mark Fast who has created the most buzz so far. It seems the designer got more than he bargained for when he cast three size 14 models for his show, prompting two of his design team to quit.

The collection comprised figure-hugging knitwear paraded on bodies of all shapes and sizes. It was a welcomed sight, and further emphasised LFW’s crackdown on size zero models. Micro mini dresses were given the spindly spider web treatment, revealing lots of flesh.

However it could be argued that Fast only used size 14 models to gain media attention, and to promote is latest collection....